Lunch Stop with a Nomadic Family

CMongolian families predominantly lead a nomadic life. They move with their herds 2 to 4 times a year. This depends on the grazing areas for their herds. 

A nuclear or extended family of 3 or 4 will make a camp so as not to be a burden on the grassland. 

300 stock of sheep, goats,  cows and/or horses is enough for a sustainable living. More than that and they are able to save.

Many gers will have a solar panel to power a radio, TV and charge their phone. 

We made a lunch stop with a friend of Byanbaa's which gave us a good insight to the life of a nomadic family.

The Ger is a versatile structure that weighs 250kg and can be quickly dismantled and easily erected. A yak and cart or 2 camels could transport it, but sometimes these days it will go on the back of a truck.

The outer layer is canvas. Inside is an insulating layer of felt, the thickness depending on the season, and a concertina lattice framework on the inside which is often hung with fabric or rugs for warmth and decoration. 

The roof is low because of the wind, hence a small door that you have to be mindful of when you enter.  In strong winds rocks on the end of ropes anchor the Ger down. In the heat the sides can be rolled up for ventilation. 

The door faces south to avoid the prevailing northerly winds and to get the most sunlight.

The inside of the family's living Ger. 

This little 3-year old was happy to pose. 

Horses aren't always corralled. When their free to roam the foals are tethered then the mothers don't wander far. The young horses stay near their mothers and the stallions stay close to the mares. 

Byanbaa explaining the details of a traditional Mongolian saddle. 

Collecting water at the stream.

Our delicious lunch - potato and meat dumplings, coleslaw, dried cheese, biscuits dipped in a thick yellow cream. And always with tea. 

Enjoying the dumplings.

The mother who cooked our lunch and her 9 year old son.

Cheese hanging

Beautiful golden ducks took off as we left. 

Under the Stars in a Ger

A welcome with an offer of dried cheese.

One of our ger camps

My roommate Rachel and I enjoying the brilliant sunshine. 

This is the normal layout of the ger. A bed on either side. You must sleep with feet facing the door. A fire in the middle. We were hoping for at least one cold night so we could have the fire on, but it never happened. 

The roof is half open to let light in and it can be covered if it rains. 

The doors are beautifully painted

One of our desert Ger Camps.

Washing time. Most often the washing machines for doing the laundry are run off generators.

Heating the water tank for hot showers which were only turned on from 6-11pm.

What a view at the washing line.

This Ger Camp could grow some vegetables in the brief summer. They have their own underground storage. 

A Ger Camp at Tsenkher hot springs. The water gurgles out of the ground at 95 degrees. A teepee type structure is built over the source and people pay their respects. 

Throat singing entertainment one night.

Ger Camps in the middle of the vast steppes show magnificent sunsets.

Wishing us a safe journey by flicking milk over the tyres. 

And back out into the 'great nothingness' to our next Ger Camp.

On the Road in Central Mongolia

Our group of seven (5 Australians, 1 German and me) in 2 Delicas, along with 2 drivers and our guide Byanbaa set off into Central Mongolia for a 1,500km journey over 5 days. We are geographically in the centre of inner Euro-Asian steppes.

Only about 3,000km are sealed roads. Many of them are in need of repair with challenging potholes and speed humps, created by extreme weather conditions. With fluctuations of below 40 degrees in the harsh winters to over 30 degrees in the short but somtimes hot summers can play havoc with the quality of paved roads. 

The other official roads which are marked on maps are dirt, sand or mud tracks. They can range from a single lane or up to 4 lanes. And if you want to detour or deviate off the official roads it's no problem, you just go cross country. It feels no different. Actually, less bumpy at times. 

The country is sparsely populated so you can travel for hundreds of kilometres before reaching a town. But, in between the vast steppes are dotted with gers and herds of stock. 

So very typical, herds of sheep, goats, cows or horses are not fenced in so are free to wander across our path.

Small rural town

The roof here is a patchwork of beaten, flattened fuel cans. 

They love painting their houses bright colours - actually this is a small supermarket. 

Morning tea stops were part of the routine most days on the road. A stretch for the legs and a rest for our bottoms.

Kiwi Girl Guide biscuits were very popular 

A petrol station in the middle of the 'great nothingness' (the term our group used when all we could see was the horizon, where the steppes met the sky).

A tricky creature to photograph 

One of those surprise photo opportunities we came across.